A Night in Koreatown
One night in November 2008, I stood outside Le Cercle on Western Avenue in L.A.’s Koreatown. I noticed a man who looked familiar, sitting next to me with a burrito that smelled divine. I was 22 and drunk. When I asked for a bite, he refused. Later, I returned with my girlfriends to the Taco Truck in the Sizzler parking lot, where we met Roy Choi, the owner of Kogi BBQ. It was his first weekend tour in Los Angeles, and the food was unforgettable.
Koreatown: Los Angeles’ Cultural Hub
Los Angeles hosts the largest concentration of ethnic Koreans outside Korea. Koreatown reflects this community’s spirit. Hangul appears on restaurants, coffee shops, dry cleaners, grocery stores, and karaoke bars. My family often visited the neighborhood to shop, eat, and get hair and eye checkups from Korean-owned businesses. My grandmother, now 91, has lived there since my childhood and never needed to learn English except to talk with her grandchildren.
Historic Spots and Modern Challenges
VIP Palace closed decades ago, but its orange façade remains. Today, it houses Guelaguetza, a family-owned Oaxacan restaurant and James Beard America’s Classics winner. Sadly, many Korean restaurants didn’t survive the pandemic. Favorites like Jun Won and Beverly Soon Tofu closed, while Dong Il Jang and Nak Won, which survived the 1992 Los Angeles uprising, couldn’t make it through 2020.
Returning to Favorite Restaurants
After vaccination, I visited Koreatown with my toddler and father. I headed to Ham Ji Park for pork ribs, pork-neck stew, and seafood, with entrees between $10 and $18. Dan Sung Sa, opened in 1997, survived COVID. Caroline Cho designed it to reflect Korea’s street stalls, with wooden counters, graffiti, and charcoal smoke. Even during COVID, the street tent allowed visitors to enjoy food safely.
Nightlife and Bars
Koreatown has a vibrant nightlife. Prince and Chapman Plaza offer Korean BBQ, draft IPAs, and modern cocktails. Dan Sung Sa preserves the informal street-food vibe. For late-night eats, 24-hour spots like Sun Nong Dan and Hodori serve hearty meals and soju after-hours.
Koreatown: Heart of L.A.
Koreatown reflects Los Angeles’ diversity and resilience. From historic eateries to modern bars, it embodies the city’s successes and challenges. Returning to favorite restaurants and discovering new ones reminded me why Koreatown remains a must-visit destination for locals and visitors alike.
